Definition: Frictional Anchor...

Basically, this is exactly what the name implies: any device that uses force generated through friction to hold itself in place. Various examples include, screws, wedges, etc. Even a bolt could be considered a frictional anchor since its the friction between the treads on the bolt and the threads on the nut that hold the nut in place.

For our purposes however, in rock climbing a frictional anchor is a device that is placed in the rock to support a fall. There are several varieties of these, including pitons, bolts, and the ever popular "Climbing Cam" which are described on the project page.

examples of pitons

Definition: Active...

Active in this case means a device that uses mechanical motion, usually generated by springs, to set itself in a crack and to position its contact surfaces against the rock so that the holding friction can be generated. Active devices generally fit a large range of crack sizes and, most importantly, they can be removed easily, which is not the case with bolts and pitons. Those are meant to be permanant features.

"Climbin Cams," or SLCD's are an example of active anchors, some of which are manufactured by our client, Wired Bliss.

For more on the types of active anchors, otherwise known as active protection, see the S.O.T.A page.

examples of active anchors